Kitchen Layout Mistakes to Avoid (and How to Get It Right)

Planning a new kitchen is equal parts excitement and logistics. Get the layout right and everything feels effortless: cooking is smoother, cleaning is faster, and the space simply works. Get it wrong and you’ll forever be dodging doors, running out of prep space, and wishing the dishwasher wasn’t there. This guide walks you through the most common kitchen layout mistakes - and exactly how to avoid them - so you can design a kitchen that’s efficient, ergonomic, and a pleasure to use.

TL;DR (for the busy planner)

• Protect your workflow: group sink, hob, and fridge sensibly.

• Reserve real prep space (not just slivers of worktop).

• Plan service points (power, water, extraction) before ordering units.

• Give yourself room to move: keep comfortable aisle widths.

• Light in layers: ambient, task, and accent.

• Future-proof storage and sockets.

• Choose materials that match real-life use, not just the mood board.

1) Poor Workflow: The “Triangle” (and Zones) Ignored

The mistake: Sink, hob, and fridge placed too far apart, crammed into corners, or broken up by tall units and door swings.

Get it right:

• Aim for an easy flow between sink → prep → hob → serving.

• Keep the classic work triangle comfortable (as a rule of thumb, each leg 1.2–2.7m, total 4–7m, adjusted to your space).

• In open-plan kitchens, zone your functions: Prep, Cooking, Clean-up, Food storage, Small appliances.

Aberdeen tip: In older granite tenements with quirky footprints, consider a galley or L-shape with a short peninsula - compact layouts can be incredibly efficient when zoned well.

2) Not Enough Real Prep Space

The mistake: Worktops chopped up by the hob, sink, corner units, and appliance towers—leaving nowhere to actually prepare food.

Get it right:

• Reserve 600–900mm of uninterrupted worktop near the hob or sink for primary prep.

• Keep at least 300mm landing space on one side of the hob and 400mm by the sink where possible.

• Consider a peninsula if there’s no room for an island—often better for prep and seating in modest UK homes.

3) Tight Aisles and Clash Points

The mistake: Doors, drawers, and appliances colliding. Two people can’t pass. Island too close to the run.

Get it right:

• Target 1000–1200mm clear aisle between opposing runs (900mm can work in very small kitchens if planned carefully).

• Check door swings on ovens, integrated fridges, and corner units.

• Stagger appliances so the dishwasher door doesn’t block access to the bin or sink.

4) Hob Next to Tall Units (or the Fridge)

The mistake: Hob is squeezed beside a tall housing or fridge; heat and splatter become issues and pans feel penned in.

Get it right:

• Keep breathing room either side of the hob (aim ~300mm each side if you can).

• Avoid placing hobs directly beside tall units or fridges; give a short run of worktop as a buffer.

• Follow your hob and extractor manufacturer clearances to meet safety and performance guidance.

5) Lighting Left to the End

The mistake: One ceiling pendant and a prayer. Shadows on the worktop, gloomy corners, and harsh glare.

Get it right:

• Use three layers:

  • Ambient (ceiling downlights or a central fitting)

  • Task (under-cabinet lighting for prep areas)

  • Accent (island pendants, shelf LEDs, plinth lighting)

• Choose warm-neutral white (around 3000–4000K) for a comfortable, natural feel.

• Put task lighting on a separate circuit or dimmer where possible.

6) Extraction as an Afterthought

The mistake: A beautiful hob with nowhere for steam and smells to go. Recirculating units used by default in spaces that need ducted extraction.

Get it right:

• Whenever feasible, choose ducted extraction to the outside rather than recirculating.

• As a rule of thumb, size extractors for roughly 10 air changes per hour of the kitchen volume (or follow manufacturer sizing guidance).

• Plan duct routes early to avoid awkward boxing later.

7) Sockets and Services in the Wrong Places

The mistake: Not enough sockets; sockets behind the toaster; no spur for the boiling-water tap; nowhere for a wine fridge later.

Get it right:

• Map your small appliance zone (kettle, toaster, coffee machine, air fryer) and place sockets accordingly.

• Plan dedicated circuits for big appliances (cooker, oven, induction hob) via a qualified electrician and current wiring regs.

• Avoid placing sockets directly above hobs or sinks; keep them accessible and sensible for daily use.

• Add a couple of spare outlets for the future - you’ll thank yourself.

8) Corner Chaos and Dead Space

The mistake: Corners that swallow pans or force you onto your knees to find a lid.

Get it right:

• Use LeMans shelves, carousels, or diagonal corner solutions.

• Consider drawers over doors wherever possible - drawers bring items to you.

• Tall pull-outs are great for dry goods; shallow pan drawers for pots, pans, and mixing bowls.

9) Skimping on Bins and Recycling

The mistake: A beautiful kitchen with nowhere for waste and recycling.

Get it right:

• Integrate bin pull-outs near the prep and sink area (ideally multi-compartment).

• If you cook often, a larger food caddy and easy-clean surfaces around it make life simpler.

10) Materials Don’t Match Your Lifestyle

The mistake: Stunning but high-maintenance finishes that aren’t realistic for a busy household.

Get it right:

• Worktops:

  • Laminate for budget-friendly durability

  • Quartz/porcelain for tougher, low-maintenance performance

  • Solid surface for seamless sinks/curves

  • Timber for warmth (accept regular oiling)

• Splashbacks: tile, glass, quartz upstands - choose easy-wipe where splatter is likely.

• Floors: think comfort, slip resistance, and cleanability (LVT and quality vinyls are kitchen heroes).

11) Not Future-Proofing

The mistake: Today’s needs only. No space for a larger fridge later; nowhere to charge devices; no allowance for accessibility.

Get it right:

• Leave flex space for wider appliances or a tall larder swap.

• Add USB/USB-C charging points or a charging drawer.

• Consider handle choices, worktop height (~900mm typical), and clearance for prams, pets, and mobility needs.

12) Budget and Timeline Surprises

The mistake: Ordering cabinets before confirming electrics, plumbing, and ventilation. Stone worktops delayed because the template can’t proceed.

Get it right:

• Decide appliances first, then design cabinetry around them.

• Lock down service points (power, water, waste, extraction) before placing orders.

• Factor in lead times for stone templating and fabrication.

• Keep a 10-15% contingency for surprises (especially in older homes where walls/floors aren’t perfectly true).

Best-Fit Layouts (and When to Choose Them)

Galley: Brilliant in narrow rooms; ultra-efficient when aisles are ~1000–1100mm.L-Shape: Great for open-plan corners; add a peninsula for extra prep and casual seating.U-Shape: Maximum storage and worktop; keep the base run widths sensible to avoid feeling boxed in.Island: Needs space; keep 1000-1200mm all round. Use it for prep + seating, not every appliance.One-Wall: Keep tall units clustered at one end, and reserve a proper prep zone near the sink/hob.

Quick-Reference Dimensions (Helpful, Not Hard Rules)

• Aisle between runs: 1000–1200mm preferred

• Island clearance: ~1000–1200mm around

• Prep zone: 600–900mm uninterrupted

• Landing by hob: ~300mm (more is better)

• Landing by sink: ~400mm

• Follow manufacturer clearances for hobs/extractors and engage a qualified electrician for compliance

Before You Order: A 12-Step Checklist

1. Finalise appliance list and sizes

2. Confirm service points (power, plumbing, waste, extraction routes)

3. Choose worktop material and understand templating/lead times

4. Lock dimensions for island/peninsula and seating overhangs

5. Plan bin/recycling capacity

6. Choose corner solutions and drawer vs. door mix

7. Map small-appliance zone and sockets

8. Design lighting: ambient + task + accent (switching plan)

9. Confirm door swings and clash points

10. Sense-check aisle widths with tape on the floor

11. Leave contingency in budget and schedule

12. Book trusted trades and align start dates

FAQs

How wide should the gap be around an island?

Aim for ~1000–1200mm so doors and drawers can open comfortably and people can pass behind someone at the hob or sink.

Do I really need ducted extraction?

If you can, yes - ducted extraction generally performs better than recirculating. Plan the duct route early.

What’s the ideal place for the dishwasher?

Close to the sink for plumbing and to make loading/unloading easy. Avoid clashing with the bin or oven doors.

Are drawers better than cupboards?

For most base units, deep drawers improve access and organisation. Keep some cupboards for tall items and cleaning kit.

What lighting do I need over worktops?

Under-cabinet task lighting to kill shadows, plus ambient ceiling lights. Add accent lighting for islands and display areas.

Working With Sharpsaw in Aberdeen

Whether you’re freshening up a compact galley or planning a full renovation with an island, we can help you translate these principles into a kitchen that feels tailored, tidy, and truly ergonomic. We’re happy to coordinate with your chosen kitchen supplier (Howdens, Magnet, Wren, IKEA, or bespoke) and manage the joinery, plumbing, electrics, and finishing to a high standard.

Thinking about your layout? Book a site visit and we’ll talk through options, measurements, and a realistic timeline.